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The Diary of Anais (Satin) (Read 233153 times)
Anais Satin
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The Diary of Anais (Satin)
Jun 29th, 2004 at 3:26am
 
People ask! Here's the silicone FAQ and product choice guide.

A silicone is a hair-coating ingredient in conditioners, ending in -cone, -conol, or -siloxane. A silicone is a hair-coating ingredient in conditioners, ending in -cone, -conol, or -siloxane. They are commonly referred to as "cones". Its role is to make the hair slick and easy to detangle. Cone-loving hair types generally tend to be coarse and straight, while cone-hating hair types generally tend to be curly, wavy, or fine. Different hair types respond to cones differently depending on porosity and coarseness/fineness. Also, tangle-prone hair may have success with cones giving more "slip" to the hair.

(sili-)Cones are extremely controversial and are found in many product lines such as Pantene, L'Oreal, and Garnier Fructis. They coat the hair shaft in layer of polymer/plastic. The silicone layer remains on the hair after the conditioner is rinsed out. Many people swear that cones mask breakage by acting as a "glue" to keep breakage together. The layer also tends to flake off, taking with them the scales from the hair's outer shell. The underlayers of the hair shaft are then exposed.

Others cannot go without silicones because that entails tangles, matting, and an even more enormous amount of breakage. While silicones are from the same chemical family as saran wrap and PVC piping, a cone conditioner comprises other ingredients besides the coating. Humectants (moisture-attractors) and emollients (smoothing agents) are also included in a conditioner's formulation. For some hair types, the cone helps bind the moisturizing ingredients to the hair shaft. The use of cones is a personal choice coming out of personal experimentation.

Proper silicone use usually requires CLARIFYING, because silicone tends to build up on the hair. Silicone cannot be completely removed by a regular shampoo. Clarifying is best done with a weekly or biweekly vinegar rinse or a "clarifying shampoo" that is specifically marked for that purpose.

Apple cider vinegar (ACV) is the most popular vinegar for homemade clarifying rinses. Dilute a small amount of ACV (usually between 2 tablespoons and 1/4 cup) in 2 cups of water. Pour this mixture through your hair after shampooing, then condition your hair as usual. While ACV will not remove all product residue, it will remove a large amount. It will also remove a large amount of mineral deposits that can make hair stiff.

Another thing you can do is LAYER your cones with a cone-free. Layer the cone OVER the cone-free by applying the cone-free first, DO rinse, then apply the cone. Comb through thoroughly and rinse.

HOW TO TELL IF YOUR HAIR TYPE AGREES WITH CONE USE

(1) Try silicones for a week. Or if you're already using cones, go to #2.
Again, silicone conditioners include Garnier, L'Oreal, and Pantene. Observe the results. Does your hair feel plastic? Does your hair feel brittle? Does it feel dry or straw-like? Crunchy? If any of these are the case, clarify with a rinse or clarifying shampoo, and move on to coneless products.

Some coneless products include Biolage Conditioning Balm, the Giovanni line, Aubrey Organics, Avalon, Nature's Gate, Jessicurl, White Rain Extra Body Classic, V05 regulars, and Suave Naturals. Reducing cone usage can also help. The farther down the ingredient list, the less of that ingredient is in the product. 

(2) Or if you're already coning and want to find out if you are the cone type , get off of them for a week. switch to a silicone-free conditioner for a week.
Observe any breakage that may show. Snip off any damaged ends, etc.. with sharp scissors. If you find that your hair has suffered severe damage on cones, find a coneless product within your budget.

If your hair tangles significantly without cones, you'll probably want to get back on them. Silicone conditioners include Suave Professionals, Pantene, L'Oreal, Garnier Fructis, Finesse, Paul Mitchell The Leave-in.
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« Last Edit: Jan 11th, 2006 at 1:37am by Anais Satin »  
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Progress photos
Reply #1 - Jun 29th, 2004 at 4:16pm
 
WHAT DO I LOOK FOR IN A SHAMPOO?

Perfect products should be both effective on the scalp and gentle on the hair. This includes the cleanser in the shampoo as well as the conditioning agents in the conditioner.

The only problem is that effectiveness and gentleness are not often paired in the same product. An effective product, e.g. a product that cleanses squeaky clean, will not necessarily be gentle. Likewise, a gentle product will not necessarily clean the hair as thoroughly as a person would like. This is one big choice that a person should make when choosing a shampoo, and it depends largely on hair type and length.

People with long hair, fine hair, color-treated hair, oily scalp, dry scalp, psoriasis or dandruff will likely need to seek gentle products. Note the second and third ingredients listed on the label. Gentle shampoos often contain Sodium Laureth Sulfate :) or any ingredient beginning with T.E.A. (the T.E.A. often followed by cocamidopropyl betaine).

The more heavy-duty products contain Sodium Lauryl Sulfate >:( (note the YL in Lauryl), Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate >:( and Ammonium Laureth Sulfate  >:((one or more of the three can be found in Suave, Pert Plus, Head and Shoulders, and other shampoos). The more heavy-duty shampoos are usually not suitable for fine hair, color-treated hair, oily scalp, dry scalp, or particularly long hair (can cause dryness on the ends of the hair, or overproduction of sebum (scalp oils) leading to oily hair). If you see any of these three above ingredients on a shampoo bottle label, exercise caution.  

All of these surfactants a.k.a. cleansers, when dissolved in water, become charged particles that "bind" to dirt/grease/other particulate matter, washing it away. Although not the most natural way possible, shampoo still seems to be the cheapest and most popular, most readily-available method to cleanse. Rotating your products will also help in the search for a "perfect" or at least "satisfactory" shampoo for your hair type.

Alternatives: CO (Conditioner-Only), CWC (Condition, wash, condition), COW-C or any variations, indian herbs, clay washing.

For more information on individual product ingredients:
http://www.cosmeticcop.com/learn/dictionary.asp?TYPE=MAIN

Brightest Blessings
Anais

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« Last Edit: Jan 11th, 2006 at 1:39am by Anais Satin »  
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reflections 5/16/2005
Reply #2 - Jun 30th, 2004 at 10:22pm
 
Progress Photos

... ... ... ...
March 2003
Late June 2004
Early september 2004
Late September 2004

... ... ... ...
Early December 2004
Late March 2005
Beltaine 2005 when it started to feel like waist length
Late June at meeting with LisaJaney and Teacherbear

... ... ... ...
While cherry picking in mid-July 2005
I love natural light! August 6 2005
Sometime in October 2005 on a day when dirty hair means straighter hair
Almost to tailbone! October 2 2005

... ......
Looks almost tailbone when straight
Frozen hair day, November 18
December progress pic

... ... ...
January 5 2006
February 3 2006
March 2006

Reflecting on changes in routine, March 20 2006

I'm going back to the usual CC-CC for awhile.
• Suave CS
• Kirkland Lemon Gingerroot
• Giovanni Direct Leave-In

(1) Stretching out wash time to 1x per week (or more)
(got this from hearing about DaveDecker's routine)
I gradually progressed as follows:
• every-other-day WC with undiluted shampoo
• every-three-days CWC with diluted shampoo
• every-five-days C-COW-C with undiluted shampoo
• weekly C-COW-C
• weekly CO, or more accurately, CC-CC
• 9 days with CC-CC
I hope to go 11 days between washes, excluding scalp rinses, because 11 is one of my luckiest numbers. :sillygrin:

(2) Ruled out clays and herbs (price obstacle).
(3) It surprises me that quitting shampoo and going to CO was so pain-free. The key was taking it through the gradual steps:
• WC or CWC undiluted
• WC or CWC diluted
• C-COW-C
• CO or some other variant.  

Finding a way to degunk and degrease the scalp:
• horn comb for exfoliation
• the regular ACV rinses through scalp and length
• scritching in the shower with fingernails or RS #42
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« Last Edit: Mar 20th, 2006 at 6:26am by Anais Satin »  
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Things I've tried
Reply #3 - Jul 7th, 2004 at 2:37am
 
THINGS I DON'T REMEMBER

Willow Lake Shampoo and Conditioner: used it for a few years, don't remember much about it besides that it smelled good.
Suave Coconut Shampoo and Conditioner: don't recall much.  

SHAMPOOS

Pert Plus 2-in-1: Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate or similar, harsh and caused lots of scalp overcompensating. Now used for cleaning the bathroom.
Paul Mitchell The Shampoo: gentle Sodium Laureth Sulfate formula, smells like Down To Earth bubble bath, beautiful pearlescent color.
Finesse shampoo before reformulation:[/b] contained Sodium Laureth Sulfate (until Finesse had a redesign to officially become a "drugstore product" instead of a "salon quality product"). The later formulation has ammonium lauryl and laureth. The old formula I have smells wonderful.
Kirkland Marine Algae Shampoo: gentle Sodium Laureth Sulfate formula from Costco, salon quality, smells like pineapple, clear white gel.

RINSE-OUT HEAVY FINAL CONDITIONERS

Suave BioBasics Conditioner: as a final conditioner that contains silicone. S-BB contains a water-soluble cone called dimethiconol, which is a very flexible and light silicone that builds up less than other varieties.
Suave Humectant Conditioner: more heavy duty, used it for summer camping or hardcore travels.
Kirkland Lemon Gingerroot: blue silicone conditioner that is a salon quality  knockoff of Paul Mitchell's Leave-in. Blue gel, rinse out or leave in, phenyltrimethicone. A little heavy and sticky for leave-ins.
Paul Mitchell Leave-in (blue stuff in a white bottle): Too sticky for leave-in, haven't tried as rinse-out, never will.

LEAVE-IN CONDITIONERS

Giovanni Direct Leave-in: Does not contain cones. I apply two drops after my regular CCC routine, when my hair is barely dry, right before sock curling for bedtime. The results for me are silkier hair.

LIGHT PRE-CONE CONE-FREE CONDITIONERS OR FOR CO ROUTINE

Suave Milk&Honey Conditioner: Has been working as a pre-cone layer for CCC. And lately, as a big pre-layer but currently am working on increasing SM&H and decreasing the cone. Somewhat appropriate as a final C.
Suave Tropical Coconut Conditioner: decent, similar to SM&H
Pure-A-Teas Lotus or Pure-A-Teas Green Tea Conditioner: I bought all the PATGT because it smells like BPAL's Embalming Fluid, otherwise known as Bear's choice of deodorant. Yum! Not appropriate as a final C.
V05 Sunkissed Raspberry Conditioner: I CO'd with this one until it ran out, and I loved it very much. It's a simple, protein free, cone free conditioner that is great for "lifting" scalp gunk. Not appropriate as a final C.
V05 Tangerine Tickle Conditioner: Used it with WCC routine back in the day. Worked well. Haven't used it for other purposes. Not appropriate as a final C.


OILS, in order: worst..indifferent.. best

Jojoba oil: makes my hair feel like straw. I only get soft jojoba results when I do a prewash. Oftentimes I would use it anyway before braiding, just because it's a 'good' oil that absorbs well. For skin, it's a miracle liquid.
Extra Virgin olive oil(EVOO): very easy to buy, but it's too heavy an oil
Avocado oil: fresh smell, light enough for a prewash with shampoo. Stopped using.
Hempseed oil: needs refrigeration. Stopped using.
Grapeseed: light and similar to jojoba in feel. Might as well use jojoba.
Macadamia nut oil (Mac): a little heavy, I tried this in my shampoo washes but it wouldn't wash out completely unless I cut down. feels "greasy" but not "oily" when rubbed between palms. Not stickier per se, but more gel-like than jojoba. Doesn't absorb as easily.
Coconut oil: also turns my hair into straw when used dry, although the initial application turns it extremely soft (until it absorbs fully. Then I get strawness). Worked rather well as a prewash treatment. Solid and travels very well. Stopped using.
Flaxseed oil: Produced really good results to my utter surprise. I had to wait awhile though; it took lots of wooden-combing and waiting for the oil to absorb into actual soft hair. but... I really like it! The only downside is that it has to be refrigerated.
Broccoli seed oil: Produced really soft silky results at first, but I have only tried it on dry hair. I don't know what long term use will give me, haven't tried it long term. BSO is very bizarre.
Shea butter: prevents hairyness in braids, a bit sticky, makes hair clump unless worked thoroughly with a horn or wooden comb, but it doesn't have the straw effect. As a leave-in, it can make hair too greasy to wear loose, good motivation to wear contained hairdos. Travels very well. Wonderful for skin, moisturizing effects literally last more than 24 hours when using whipped shea 'cream' recipe (used as leave-in conditioner for braiding, hand salve, foot balm, general lotion, and of course, lip balm) It's shea white, shea yellow, and a small chunk (comparatively) of kokum butter for smoothness. I've also added mango butter into some mixes. NEW FAVORITE.
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« Last Edit: Sep 22nd, 2005 at 8:12pm by Anais Satin »  
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Stuff....
Reply #4 - Apr 4th, 2005 at 6:31pm
 
Hair update. Recently I came to realize that the C-COW-C method is becoming well known and useful. People use it! Wavelength, Morguebabe, Sapphire, Preciouslocks, and others at least have been using it. I use it about once a week, and any other washes are going to be CO. Other than that, I've seen some change in hair thickness. My buns are now lopsided because the hair from last year is much thicker than the year before. This morning I attempted a bun with a straight hairstick instead of a corkscrew. That stayed for a short while.

Corset under construction since February. Can't wait to get it Wink

Current reading list:
City of Secrets
The Red Queen
The Godfather

Got a little more comfortable back as a pagan. I came to realize how much I'd missed Tori Amos since I stopped having time to listen to real music. It was a weird ironic sick and twisted feeling of listening to her sing "Mary [Magdalene] .. can you hear me Mary...  .... don't be afraid, we're just waking up... even the wind cries your name" right after the death of Pope John Paul II. It was just a really strange clash of times. I'm not sure I felt right about listening to Tori's "God" either during a time when people are grieving for a great religious leader. ("Tell me you're crazy, maybe then I'll understand.... you've got your nine, nine-iron in the back seat just in case.. I hear you've gone South now babe you love your new four-wheel-- what do you know what do you know"). ::sigh::. Condolences and blessings to everyone.
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CO with four C's
Reply #5 - Apr 8th, 2005 at 3:39pm
 
CO'd last night with four different conditioners just for the heck of it. Chachachacha WOW, Doing four feels great. First I did Lotus and Raspberry in dilution, then the Suave Milk and Honey combed through, then the Lemon Gingerroot combed through. The really nice thing is not rinsing out the Suave as I'm applying the Lemon Gingerroot (cones) That way, there's a little less conage... in addition, I realize I've been layering my cones over a coneless. This decreases exposure of the cuticle to the cones, so hypothetically I'd get less cone damage that way.

I was thinking of changing my hair goal to suit the length of my sword. I wanted to have hair that is as long as my sword (not measured the GM method, but measured from the top of the head) But it's behind the piano, and I'd have to check tonight. It's probably about 36 inches though, which is only slightly past tailbone. Fingertip was the original goal... Ah, well, fingertip = Golden Ratio and I guess I'll stick with that.
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April 2005 update
Reply #6 - Apr 17th, 2005 at 8:50pm
 
April 2005 UPDATE

Shampoo(s) and conditioner(s): CO routine with three different conditioners and no shampoo.
Suave Milk and Honey (with no silicones)
CO c.ocktail: Pure-A-Teas Lotus + V05 SKR
Kirkland Lemon Complex Conditioner or Suave BioBasics (Both having silicones)
(Hairwash 1-2 times every two weeks)

Oils: Been forgetting to oil lately, but usually coconut oil gives the best results.

Tools: MP rake comb for shower use, Rachael Stephens comb is getting neglected, hardwood combs for everyday detangling e.g. in the morning and evening. I'm looking to increase their use. Stopped brushing with BBB. I do not use a poky brush, plastic or otherwise.

Misc: Been sleeping in orthodontic headgear and a Bubba sleep tail or socks for curling. Sock curling helps my headgear not slip off (headgear slips off when I turn and sleep on my side)

Hair toys that actually stay, given my slippery and springy hair:
- Mamacat corkscrew sticks (getting more next week)
- medium or large claw clip
- straight Earthsticks (stay for maybe an hour)
- scrunchies for braid

possible do's
- damp bun with corkscrew Mamacat sticks (10% of waking hours)
- dry bun with corkscrew Mamacat sticks (15% of waking hours)
- bun with medium claw clip (25% of waking hours)
- Chinese bun with straight stick (less than 1% of the time)
- the Bubba sleep tail. (night)
- French braid
- twin braids*NEW
- single braid*NEW used most often (50%) I finally am able to get all the crazy layers into a braid. And it's waist length, so this sounds nuts. Probably... I just didn't braid before because it was too much hassle. And now all of the sudden it's a binge.

NEXT MEASUREUP ON BELTAINE 2005!
MAY 1, HERE WE COME Grin
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we have a Pope
Reply #7 - Apr 20th, 2005 at 6:50am
 
We have a pope now, I could hardly believe it. Shocked That was too quick. It's Cardinal Ratzinger (Opus Dei?? not sure) and he has chosen the name of Benedict 16. After the guy who invented the Benedictine monks I guess... Today's history lecture was cancelled today on account of Popage. We discussed our predictions and theories on how this "new"(?) Vatican would handle issues like contraceptives and AIDS, whether scripture should be changed to suit the needs of the time, whether tradition takes precedence over cultural change, whether the definition of tradition in general has to evolve in order to survive, whether there is even a "threat" to the survival of the Catholic faith (which I am absolutely certain CANNOT be).

Writing an article on disposable alternatives to menstrual products. Need to call sewage treatment plant tomorrow.

M from History class #3.. the one who used to have the long wavy hip length hair.. she cut it this weekend. It's about shoulderblade length now. I was a bit saddened by this, but in a way, I'm gloating. Now I have longer hair than she does.

PM'd the Maker about corset. I keep anticipating its finish but delays usually happen. I feel bad. about stringing readers along with my corset acquisition or lack thereof. Whatever readers I may have left. I keep saying, "It'salmostdoneit'salmostdone... yay yay yay, squee squee squee, yada yada yada" but so far I've delivered no cheese. Currently waiting for an answer on an estimated finish time. PM'd Maker yesterday, I wonder if the supplies have been ordered yet. Is it too soon to squee? Squeeee! Hm..

Bear called today. Wink I ate lunch first because it was microwavable. Then we went to the art gallery and looked at the thesis exhibit. There was this amazing Inferno series we looked at for most of our time. Some really lovely ceramics- especially woodfired stoneware. Woodcut prints, oil paints, charcoal.... He loooooved the Inferno series. It was gas-fired sculpture in stoneware, of four little men "emerging" out of bricks, and being pulled down into the brick by a hand or two. Like that frozen lake in Divine Comedy.
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stuff
Reply #8 - Apr 22nd, 2005 at 7:32pm
 
Successfully did another figure 8, held with a claw, holds beautifully and with good weight distribution. I did figure 8's a couple months back but I didn't like how they pulled on the scalp. This time I also tried with hairscroos and they hold nicely... Might keep hairscroos, or might trade them to Evenstar. Right now it borders on a figure-P because my ends tend to sproing out. Wet, it stays a figure 8. Adding "figure 8 with large claw clip" onto the list of possible do's

Told mum about CO and vinegar. She was skeptical that it could actually clean my hair. CO has been working wonderfully as long as I keep clarifying every week or so, and comb the scalp thoroughly after the wash with a rake comb to remove all the scalp gunk.

Just finishing up second cycle on the Mooncup. I love my cup Cheesy

The Nature Valley peanut granola bars are just so yummy. They have a coating of peanut butter cream on the bottom, like the feel of chocolate coating. The bar itself is made with roasted peanuts and rolled oats with marshmallow binding.
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Re: Anais Satin: Medusa's hair/lair
Reply #9 - Apr 26th, 2005 at 3:52am
 
CO'd on Wednesday, and Alias was on. I ran a bit late.

Wrote article on reusable menstrual products. I went on a outing, to ask many guys what they thought the Mooncup diagram actually represented. They said things like small toilet plunger, reception device, slingshot, stethoscope, penile implant, prophylactic.

Things I will do when I finally finish the semester:
  • finish the rest of the translation project
  • read Kushiel's Dart, The Elegant Universe
  • organize my clip file so I don't have to do it in the fall
  • launder all my socks
  • make more money
  • stop buying stuff I don't need
  • sew the inside of my coat sleeve from winter
  • call people more
  • get out of the house more
  • wear my long skirts
Call them "Summer's Resolutions"

Maker pm'd me about the corset yesterday. The supplies are on the way to her. Unless the supplies are from AlterYears, which she posted about not patronizing again, whose warehouse people are away on a costuming convention out of state until mid May. Anyway I'm just glad she's at least semi-up and running. This commission has taken a long time, but I have always felt that I was too hard on her during this time because of her recent loss. The supplies should arrive at her place within the week, then things should fall together nicely. I should probably have the corset by the time finals are over.

This will be totally worth it. Duke reminds me it will be totally worth it. I will be wearing it with my long and lovely skirt. And no, this is not counting my eggs before they hatch! They will definitely hatch. I have been waiting the past six months to get this corset. I'll be home to take UPS shipments for the summer. Yummmmm

My best friend called the day before yesterday (Saturday). Things are going really well for her. She is going to let me paint her car (it's not officially "hers" yet) but she got a Volkswagen Beetle in the old version. I get to paint it in wild hippie colors. Or maybe a Van Gogh painting like Starry Night! Then the other side can have the Irises, or maybe even a Vermeer. This will be a fun long term project.
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The meaning of life
Reply #10 - Apr 28th, 2005 at 9:33pm
 
Warrior and I talked about the meaning of life. We've boiled it down to a few paragraphs. This is original in the sense of the wording, but the masters have known it for centuries.

Jesuits had it really close. They said to serve others. However, it is the presupposition that matters. In serving others, it involves the assumption or presupposition that "I am enough". That "I am excellence", and "I don't need anything else to be happy", "therefore this is why I serve others". It's unbelievably difficult for people to accept they are excellence, but also that they are one very small fraction of something great. People of all religions have this difficulty because it's been labeled as pride or egoism.

The meaning of life, presented as the Three Clashing Ideas in Metaphysics:

(1) "I am excellence"
(2) "I am 0.00000001% of the cosmos"
and I must add the third,
(3) Everything is an act of meditation

(1) "I am excellence" enables the person to live life as if they weren't going to die. It's not "I will strive for" excellence. It's "I am". The happiest people do not live life as if they were going to die tomorrow. The happiest people live life as if they were going to live forever. "I am excellence" involves being everything at once, and a life force that permeates everything. No more admiration. No more jealousy. No more hate.  

(2) Here, humility exists on the same plane as ego. Both (1) and (2) can coexist in the same time and space. This is Schrodinger's Cat

(3) When everything is an act of meditation, everything becomes pleasure. All value systems are lost. Value systems become nonexistent, mainly because of (3) (Value systems exist because they are the only way we get anything done. If there were no value systems, we would have no priorities, no time, no placement, no social structure, no parenthood, no formal education.)

All three concepts (1), (2), (3) cannot exist for everyone, as long as human nature remains what it is. The moment these three things are combined, we have a paradigm shift.
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Re: Anais Satin: Medusa's hair/lair
Reply #11 - Apr 29th, 2005 at 2:47pm
 
My new hairsticks (the ONLY ones that stay, EVER, because they're corkscrew shaped)

...

This is a thingytail. don't know how this happened.

photo removed
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Re: Anais Satin: Medusa's hair/lair
Reply #12 - Apr 29th, 2005 at 3:21pm
 
Ohhhhh I love your two reddish pairs! Cheesy Grin

I love your figure 8 bun
some day....
Cheesy Cheesy
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Re: Anais Satin: Medusa's hair/lair
Reply #13 - Apr 29th, 2005 at 3:27pm
 
Cool!  I'm awaiting the day I can do a figure 8 bun, I think they're so beautiful.

I've never seen hairsticks like those before.  I particularly like the cream w/red.  Very pretty!
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Gender: female
Re: Anais Satin: Medusa's hair/lair
Reply #14 - Apr 30th, 2005 at 10:31pm
 
oh my ... do i envy your SHINE!!!  Kiss
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styg. (1 b/c F/M ii)&&32"/ 36"/ 38-40"
 
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