Hair Braiding: English, Fishtail, Dutch & French Braids

LongLocks' Hair Braiding Basics provides step-by-step instructions to teach you how to braid long hair into English braid, French braid (with a cornrow variation), Dutch braid and fishtail (aka herringbone) braid hair styles. Braids can be incorporated into formal updos for prom and wedding hairstyles, as well as casual styles for long hair. See the LongLocks HairStyles Gallery for illustrations and detailed instructions for using braids in several different hairstyles. With little practice you will become an expert at creating beautiful braids on yourself and others by following the simple steps outlined below. Don't forget to adorn your beautiful braid with LongLocks HairSticks!

Before you begin you will need to have a few things within arm's reach: a wide-tooth comb, a somewhat fine-tooth comb or a rat tail comb (a comb with a long narrow handle that comes to a point) if creating a fishtail or French braid, a soft hair-friendly ponytail holder (do not use rubberbands... check out the LongLocks Ultimate Guide to Growing Long Hair to find out why), and a bit of patience. Some people, especially those with curly or wavy hair, find braiding damp hair easier than braiding dry hair. Keep a spray bottle of water close-by so you can redampen your hair if it dries while you work; however, keep in mind that long, very wet hair will take an extremely long time to dry. If your hair is fine, fly-away, or more than one length you may want to consider applying some gel before braiding or hairspray after braiding to help keep stray hairs from coming loose from the finished braid. Check out our Hair Care Recipe Cookbook for natural alternatives to these products that you can make yourself. It can also be useful to set up two mirrors across from each other so you are able to see the back of your head without holding a mirror in your hand, especially when attempting French, Dutch or fishtail braids.

Begin every braid by making sure hair is as smooth as possible and entirely free of even the smallest tangles (check out The Ultimate Guide to Removing Knots to learn how to do this safely). Comb it with a wide-tooth comb until the comb moves easily through all the hair, then divide it into small sections and comb it with a finer-tooth comb to be sure all knots have been removed. Even small knots will cause you problems down the road. If you have very long hair, be sure to comb the unbraided hair routinely as you work, including the ends of the sections of hair that have already been braided. Before beginning to braid, be sure to remove any rings or bracelets that have prongs or catches that might get caught in hair, and make sure your fingernails are filed smoothly, as snagging your hair can easily undo all your work.

Most importantly, give yourself time to learn. Braiding won't be easy the first time you try it but with just a little bit of practice you will quickly become a braiding expert. Soon you will be creating your very own versions of braided hairstyles and updos, and may even gain the confidence to attempt more complicated 5-, 6- or 7-strand braids!

Basic English Braids

This is the most common braid and is quick and easy to create even on yourself.

1. Divide all the hair into three even sections and comb each section smooth.
2. Cross the right hand section over the middle section. The original right hand section is now the middle section.
3. Pull all the sections away from each other to tighten the plait.
4. Cross the left hand section over the middle section. The original left hand section is now the middle section.
5. Tighten the plait again.
6. Continue the process alternating right and left sections over the middle section, tightening each plait as you make it.
7. Secure the end of the braid with a hair-safe ponytail holder.

Tips: You can learn to braid by using three pieces of string or rope laying flat on a table. Once you understand the concept, it's easy to make the transfer to braiding hair. Once you are adept at making the braid you will want to hold all the sections in your hands to increase your braiding speed and ensure uniform plaits. Try holding the outside sections between the thumb and index finger of each hand and moving the middle section between the index and middle fingers back and forth between both hands as the outside sections are crossed over it.

Fishtail or Herringbone Braids

This is a stunning two-strand braid and is a great way to learn the concept of French braiding before tackling three strands.

1. Divide a small section of hair where you want the braid to start (usually at the hairline at the front of the head or just behind your bangs if you have them) into two even sections.
2. Comb each section smooth.
3. Cross the right hand section over the left section.
4. Pull the sections away from each other to tighten the plait.
5. Using the pointed end of a rat tail comb, lift a small section of hair on the right by drawing a line against the scalp from the hairline to the middle of the braid about a half inch to an inch beneath the first plait, depending on the thickness of your hair and how woven you want it to look (more strands create a more woven appearance).
6. Add the new section of hair to the existing section on the right and then cross it over the left section; tighten the plait.
7. Again using the handle of a rat tail comb, lift a small section of hair on the left by drawing a line against the scalp from the hairline to the middle of the braid even with the section you just lifted from the right, add this hair to the existing section on the left and then cross it over the right section.
8. Continue the process alternating right and left sections, tightening each plait as you make it, until you reach the hairline at the nape of the neck.
9. Secure the remaining hair with a hair-safe ponytail holder. You can then let the remaining hair hang free or weave a standard English braid to the ends.

Tips: For a different look, cross the sections of hair under each other instead of over. Keeping your hands close to the head will create a tighter braid, holding your hands away from the head will create a looser, more drapey braid.

French Braids, Dutch Braids and Cornrows

This is a beautiful braid that looks much more complicated than it is. It can be done in two styles, the overbraid which creates the classic woven appearance of a French braid, or the Dutch Braid (sometimes called an underbraid or inverted braid) which creates a braided rope that sits on top of the hair. The French braid is also the basic method to create cornrows, though on a much smaller (and harder to master) scale. To make cornrows, the hair is parted into narrow sections, divided into tiny strands and worked very close to the scalp. Follow the below method of adding hair to the braid, which is pulled from the edge of each parted section rather than from the hairline.

1. Divide a small section of hair where you want the braid to start (usually at the crown of the head) into three even sections.
2. Comb each section smooth.
3. Cross the right hand section over the middle section. The original right hand section is now the middle section.
4. Pull all the sections away from each other to tighten the plait.
5. Cross the left hand section over the middle section. The original left hand section is now the middle section.
6. Tighten the plait again.
7. Using the pointed end of a rat tail comb, lift a small section of hair on the right by drawing a line against the scalp from the hairline to the middle of the braid about a half inch to an inch beneath the first plait, depending on the thickness of your hair and how woven you want it to look (more strands create a more woven appearance).
8. Add the new section of hair to the existing section on the right and then cross it over the middle section; tighten the plait.
9. Again using the handle of a rat tail comb, lift a small section of hair on the left by drawing a line against the scalp from the hairline to the middle of the braid even with the section you just lifted from the right, add this hair to the existing section on the left and then cross it over the middle section.
10. Continue the process alternating right and left sections over the middle section, tightening each plait as you make it, until you reach the hairline. Secure the end of the braid with a hair-safe ponytail holder or continue weaving an English braid to the ends of the hair. This style is gorgeous with the remaining English braid coiled in a chignon and secured with LongLocks HairSticks

Tips: To create a Dutch braid, cross the sections of hair under the middle section with each pass instead of crossing over it. Keeping your hands close to the head will create a tighter braid, holding your hands away from the head will create a looser, more drapey braid. This style can look stunning with the braid ending at the hairline and remaining hair caught in a ponytail, with the remainder of the hair being braided, or with the remaining hair tucked under the woven sections. See the LongLocks HairStyle Gallery for some great braid hair style suggestions.

You can create braids to frame your face or make multiple braids in wider rows by sectioning the hair you want the braid to follow and working within the part(s) of each section.